Tsuchinoto-mi Day: A White Snake, a Lion and a Jar for Grumbles

Place

Hebikubo Shrine (蛇窪神社)

Event

White Snake Dance and Lion Dance (白蛇舞・獅子舞)

When

Tsuchinoto-mi Day (己巳の日) / approximately every 60 days

This is the day’s cycle, not a fixed performance schedule. Check official announcements.

Visiting information ↓

A white snake, masked performers and a lion head facing a small child at Hebikubo Shrine.

Good luck does not always make a reassuring first impression.

At Hebikubo Shrine in Tokyo’s Shinagawa district, it had a long red tongue, elaborate robes and a lion for company. Some of the children were delighted. Others were frightened.

Looking at the masks, I could understand both positions.

I visited on 11 January 2023, and there were considerably more people than I had expected. Winter coats filled the approach beneath the torii. Perhaps the New Year shrine-visiting season had something to do with it; perhaps this was a normal turnout for the occasion.

Visitors queuing beneath the torii at Hebikubo Shrine.
Winter coats beneath the torii on 11 January.

The occasion was Tsuchinoto-mi Day, an auspicious day for white-snake worship. Yoshifuku Shachū was offering its White Snake Dance, with lion dancing also on the programme.

The white snake is associated with good fortune, particularly prosperity. Its appearance that day suggested that good fortune did not necessarily intend to arrive discreetly.

The snakes that stay still

Around the grounds, smaller white-snake figures and a pair of coiled stone snakes offered a quieter introduction.

A pair of coiled stone snakes at Hebikubo Shrine.
The nade-shirohebi: white snakes to stroke, though strictly speaking they are grey. This is not the advice snakes usually come with.

In the shrine’s own account, a white snake once lived in a spring-fed washing place beside the main hall. When the washing place disappeared, the snake had no choice but to move to a pond in what is now Togoshi Park. It then appeared in the dream of a man from an old local family and asked to be returned to its old home as soon as possible. The shrine dug a pond for it on what is now the car park, and enshrined the snake in a small stone shrine on an island in the middle.

For a supernatural encounter, the request was rather domestic.

The snake wanted its old address back.

The neighbourhood lost its snake as well. This was once the village of Hebikubo, “snake hollow.” When it became part of Tokyo City in 1932, it was renamed after the shrine instead. In 2019, the shrine made “Hebikubo Shrine” its official everyday name, though its formal name is still Tenso Shrine. The snake’s name, at least, has moved back in.

The snake with sleeves

The performing snake wore gold-patterned robes and carried a leafy branch and a fan. Being represented by a human had brought certain practical advantages.

Yoshifuku Shachū began offering this dance at Hebikubo in 2020. Its story is the shrine’s legend: the snake that lost its home, the dream, the pond. According to the troupe, the snake was so pleased with its new pond that it made it rain. I liked that the dance was so recent. Faith in the white snake was still inspiring people to create something new.

The white-snake performer holding a leafy branch, with neighbourhood buildings behind.
Gold-patterned robes, a red tongue and an ordinary Tokyo backdrop.

Behind the white snake were frosted windows, an air-conditioning unit and a parked scooter. The snake belonged to a sacred story; the scooter presumably belonged to someone nearby.

At the edge of the stage, a performer wearing a tanuki (Japanese raccoon dog) mask held an ornate lion head. The white snake stood on one side, a white-haired fox on the other.

A small child in a padded jacket stood just in front of them, while an adult nearby held up a phone.

By custom, a bite on the head from a lion is supposed to keep illness away.

A lion’s good intentions are probably easier to appreciate when you are taller than it is.

Somewhere for the grumbles

Elsewhere in the grounds, the shrine had provision for a different kind of offering: a guchitsubo—a jar for your grumbles. It stands ready all year round.

A large earthenware jar with a wooden lid and a sign reading guchitsubo.
The guchitsubo. Not every offering has to be a compliment.

The shrine’s instructions are simple: lift the lid, tell the jar what is bothering you, and then close the lid firmly. Inside, there is salt for purification.

You can visit the shrine to ask for good fortune without having to pretend that everything is going well already.

The jar is reassuringly large. For those with less to get off their chest, there is also a smaller one.

At Hebikubo, approaching good fortune might take a little courage.

Complaining about your luck only requires lifting a lid.

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Location

Hebikubo Shrine (蛇窪神社)

About 5 minutes on foot from Toei Asakusa Line Nakanobu Station, or 6 minutes from Tokyu Oimachi Line Nakanobu Station

4-4-12 Futaba, Shinagawa City, Tokyo 142-0043, Japan

Practical Information

Area
Shinagawa, Tokyo
Event observed
White Snake Dance and Lion Dance (白蛇舞・獅子舞)
Observed on
January 11, 2023
Occasion
Tsuchinoto-mi Day (己巳の日)
Usual recurrence
Approximately every 60 days
Performance schedule
Dates and times are not fixed. Check Hebikubo Shrine’s official announcements before visiting.
Access
About 5 minutes on foot from Toei Asakusa Line Nakanobu Station, 6 minutes from Tokyu Oimachi Line Nakanobu Station or 8 minutes from JR Nishi-Oi Station
Visitor note
Hebikubo is an active place of worship. Expect the grounds to be busier on auspicious days and follow onsite guidance around performances.

Information last checked: September 5, 2026. The next performance date and time have not been confirmed here.

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