Okinawa

A corridor lined on both sides with long strings of brightly coloured paper cranes, leading to an arched opening where a lit staircase goes down into the tunnels

Okinawa Monuments

Navy Underground HQ: Names in a Shell Casing

Published: Oct 8, 2026

A bukubuku tea set on a black tray: a cup piled high with white foam, small brown sweets, iced water, a cup of brown sugar and peanuts, a little dish of green jelly and a plate of tropical fruit, with a large wooden bowl and bamboo whisk on a green cloth beside it

Okinawa Food Story

Bukubuku Tea: Bubble Tea, Taken Literally

Eaten at: Bukubuku Chaya Karisanfan (ぶくぶく茶屋嘉例山房)
Published: Oct 7, 2026

Sukugarasu tofu on a long light-blue plate: eight blocks of white tofu in a row, each topped with one small salted silver fish and sliced spring onion, with shiso, pickled red ginger and cress at the ends

Okinawa Food Story

Sukugarasu Tofu: One Fish per Block

Eaten at: Churasantei (海鮮居酒屋ちゅらさん亭)
Published: Sep 30, 2026

A bowl of coconut crab soup with the red shell split and standing upright, legs folded beside it, and a long antenna and stalked eyes rising above a cloudy broth

Okinawa Food Story

Abasa and Coconut Crab Soup: The Spiny and the Clawed

Eaten at: Churasantei (海鮮居酒屋ちゅらさん亭)
Published: Sep 30, 2026

The chained and padlocked wooden double door of the west chamber of Urasoe Yōdore, set in a white wall under overhanging rock, with small square windows on each side and a fence in the foreground

Okinawa Monuments

Urasoe Yōdore: Evening Calm Beside Hacksaw Ridge

Published: Sep 30, 2026

Looking down from the observation tower at clustered octagonal roofs, most with a smaller lantern on top, with apartment blocks and a park beyond

Okinawa Architecture

Urasoe Art Museum: Architecture Must Be Healthy

Published: Sep 29, 2026

Colourful taco rice at PICO Shokudo in Shuri, topped with chunky pork, vegetables, avocado, cheese and an onsen egg.

Okinawa Food Story

Taco Rice: Would This Work on Rice?

Dish: Goro Goro Meat Taco Rice (ゴロゴロお肉のタコライス)
Eaten at: PICO Shokudo (PICO食堂)
Published: Aug 30, 2026